Fashion TV Shows

Dolores Abernathy’s Blue Dress + The Maze Costumes From HBO’s Westworld

May 3, 2020

Delores Abernathy was time consuming. She’s a complicated woman. The hardest part was sourcing materials to be as screen accurate as I could find in two months before the final episode of Season 2. This took a ton of computer time and the help of the Westworld Costuming Group on Facebook to track down the needed materials. Thanks Delores ladies! It takes a team!

The Delores costume is going to require several weeks of material procurement plus dying of fabric and construction. If you are looking for an easier costume, I created a poncho of The Maze! The tutorial on this fast and easy Maze costume can be found here.

Are you up for a challenge? Then let’s create a semi-historical rancher’s daughter costume from the 1880’s!

Blue dress that Delores wears in Season 1 and 2 of HBO’s Westworld.

Materials for the blue rancher’s daughter costume worn by Delores Abernathy in Westworld Season 1 and 2:

The Process:
Pattern-making and drafting: I adore the Truly Victorian patterns. They are historically accurate, easy to follow and simple to alter. I didn’t want to cut the pattern so I transferred the pattern to wax paper. I like using wax paper because it is cheap and easy to see through. I also made a mockup with extra lining fabric. The bodice pattern required a reshaping of the neckline and some fit adjustments around the armhole. The skirt pattern just needed the opening flap moved to the side front area. Special Note: I’m around 5ft 7in and the skirt was almost too short for me if you follow the pattern exactly. Add an extra inch or two to the hemline of the skirt pattern just in case.

Pile of pattern drafts with notes/drafts/changes
The basic shape of my bum pad pattern that I drafted. This was sewed in cotton, pre-ruffled lace was sewn in rows to the top layer for decoration and stuffed with polyfill until I was happy with the shape.
Final pattern with edits. Notice I changed the shape of the neckline and added 1/2 in extra fabric for the front closure.

The Fabric. The swiss dot fabric needs to be dyed and this takes trial and error. I used to help guide my first test. I was aiming for the “Blue Yonder” color. Once I was happy with the color, I used the same proportions of dye in my washing machine. I also dyed the lining the same color.

A few dye samples. I ended up with a shade similar to the middle fabric piece. You need the fabric to compliment the blue/white dot fabric as well.

Sewing/Construction: I used the instructions on the pattern as a guide. The seams of the bodice are “piped” so I used this iron-on piping and strips of my outer fabric to create the piping and basted them on my bodice armhole before attaching the sleeve. I tried to avoid the dots when cutting my fabric for the piping.

View of the piping. Look how my seams line up! Yay!

The Trim: The trim was tricky. For the ruffle trim around the neck, I cut strips of the blue/white swiss dot and narrow hemmed one side. I then used my Ultimate Ruffler Foot for my Janome 6600P sewing machine to create the ruffles. It worked great, but I needed to really press the ruffles flat before using.

Thank goodness for Ruffle attachments to your sewing machine!
The wave braid trim was carefully painted with a blue/yellow sharpie. It surprisingly worked well! The velvet ribbon goes under the braid. Here is the trim all ready to be sewed down.

The Belt: This was my first project working with real leather. I’ve never dyed leather before but it was fun. The wonderful folks at Tandy Leather helped to find the right tools to brush on the dye and seal it. They are such a fantastic resource and a great store!

The real belt above and my belt below. My buckle was from Abby England and my pouch from Amazon.
The completed dress with a closeup of the trim and a photo of the corset/petticoat and bum pad.
Makeup and wig test. Still trying to perfect the wig…
All together now!
With The Dog in Black

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